In Dublin's fair city

Where maids are so pretty

'Twas there that I first met sweet Molly Malone.

She wheeled her wheelbarrow

Through streets broad and narrow

Crying "Cockles and Mussels-Alive-Alive-O."

Alive-Alive-O-Alive-Alive-O.

Crying "Cockles and Mussels-Alive-Alive-O."

This song radiates through your brain as you wander about Dublin, the capital of modern Ireland. There stands a statue of Molly for all the world to see.

On the last days of 2004 Lorraine and I and my two brothers-in-law and sisters-in-law traveled to Ireland to spend New Year's in Dublin. We truly enjoyed everything but the weather, which was alternately rainy and bone-chilling cold.

Dublin, Europe's second largest city, has regenerated itself in the world of computers and technology. No longer just the capital of an agricultural nation, Dublin is alive with new buildings and the sight of huge cranes are everywhere.

What did I like most about Dublin, you ask? Well, here goes:

1. You've got to love Irish breakfasts at the hotel - fresh eggs, sausages, fried tomatoes, beans, fruit, cheese, great breads and strong tea.

2. The River Liffey - You cut over it and back over it on quaint bridges many times as you view the city.

3. Dublin's "Hop-on-hop-off tour bus." For one price you can get off, see a sight and jump back on to see more - 14 Euros (yes, Euros are the currency, $14 will get you 10 Euros, which makes Dublin not a cheap city to see)..

4. It tells and retells the story of the Irish Rebellion on Easter Sunday, 1916; the brave men and women who fought the British and were rewarded with the 26 counties of a free Ireland. The six counties of the north are still a part of Britain.

One stop, at the Killmainham Gaol was truly graphic. It showed where the revolutionaries were held and the courtyard of the prison where some were executed. Names like Michael Collins and Parnell served time here.

5. Dublin (meaning black pool) was founded by the seagoing Vikings from Scandanavia in the first millennium. Very few traces from this background are still to be found.

6. Dublin has produced three Nobel Prize authors for literature. It is a testament to the Irish storytelling tradition and the beautiful use of language. The authors are William Butler Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and last but certainly not least, James Joyce. The Dublin Writers Museum on the Hop-On Hop-Off tour was a more than worthwhile stop as it housed many books and memorabilia of Irish authors. While at the museum we were fortunate to see an Irish actor perform portions of great Irish literature.

7. On New Year's Eve we saw the play Many Happy Returns at the Gate Theater. It was done professionally and we all wondered if it would please a New York audience enough to be financially successful. We came up with "we don't know."

8. Other interesting stops on the tour included: the Guinness Beer Factory, the Old Jameson Whiskey Place, Dublinia (a representation of Ireland and Dublin in the early years) and Trinity College where Jonathan Swift was in charge, which was also interesting.

9. The music of Irish folk singing was rousing, and the pubs were little comfortable places where you could eat delicious food and drink beers of great distinction.

10. The best part of Dublin I am saving for last. It is the Irish people. Every cab driver, bus driver, waitress, etc. was cordial and conversed in a way that set the traveler 'at ease.'

We laughed at their stories and they laughed at ours. They were hospitable and friendly and they made our stay both interesting and entertaining.

And now, let us face the year 2005 and hope for peace and tranquility.