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Zox Kitchen

Zox Kitchen: June 5, 2014

Spring And Summer Soups,

Hot Or Cold

Soup is one of those foods that is invariably satisfying. I have always wondered why. Whether soup is warm or hot it nourishes and replenishes. When it’s cold it revitalizes and quenches our thirst. Perhaps soup’s satisfaction is merely because it’s made of nutritious and delicious ingredients.

But of course so is grilled ribeye steak, roasted Dover sole, quinoa and eggplant, or macaroni and cheese among many other foods I love. Or, perhaps soup’s satisfaction is a regional thing like New England Clam Chowder, borscht, tortilla soup or matzoh ball soup.

Sometimes I think soup is so darned good because it is so simple, flavorful and easy to digest. But friends tell me that the wonderful flavor of soup is not so easy to capture, nor is that special taste so easy to create.

Some key ingredients and techniques are more important than others and not to be taken for granted like adding a small but essential pinch of white pepper, or nutmeg, or saffron, or thickening soup by adding pureed beans and greens, or escarole and garlic.

I do know that soup’s popularity is universal. It’s enjoyed by rich and poor from one side of the planet to another, from Asia to America. We know these soups by different names. For example, in the Far East soup goes by the name Congee in China, Gour Bah in Taiwan, Chao Bo in Vietnam, and Kanji in Southern India.

Evidence of soup can be found as far back as about 20,000 BC. Its popularity seems to have grown with the invention of waterproof containers and the use of hot rocks to boil the water. This appreciation for soup grew in 1765 when a Parisian entrepreneur opened a soup shop that followed the success of street vendors who sold concentrated, inexpensive versions.

Here are three of my favorite spring and summer soups, which feature leeks and potatoes, roasted carrots, and green peas. All of these simple yet lovely treats can be eaten hot or cold. In every case you can’t go wrong — in season or out. My grandmother used to say that hot soup was excellent even in hot weather while cold soup had its place as well.

Soup #1: Leek Or Potato Soup

(AKA Vichyssoise If Served Chilled)

Serves 6

Ingredients:

• 6 tablespoons butter cut into 2-inch squares

• 10 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced

• 5 medium potatoes, peeled and then cut into small cubes

• 4 cups chicken stock

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 5 fresh chives, finely chopped

• 1 teaspoon nutmeg

• 1 teaspoon each sea salt and white pepper

Preparation:

1. In a large, heavy bottom pot, melt butter over low heat. Once butter is melted, add the leeks and sweat for 5 minutes, making sure they do not take on any color.

2. Add potatoes and cook for two or three minutes, stirring a few times.

3, Stir in the chicken broth and bring to a boil.

4. Reduce heat to a simmer. Cook on low heat, gently simmering for 40 minutes, or until the leeks and potatoes are very soft. Allow to cool for a few minutes.

5. Slowly, and in small batches, puree the soup at a high speed in the blender. Lean on the top when you turn it on to avoid spilling accidents.

6. Return soup to the cooking pot and whisk in cream and nutmeg. Season with salt and white pepper. Return to a boil, reduce to simmer and cook 5 minutes.

7. Transfer soup to the mixing bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally. When soup is at room temperature, cover in plastic wrap and put into the refrigerator to cool for 2 hours. If served hot, return to pot and reheat until simmering.

8. Check seasoning, sprinkle with chives and serve in chilled bowls. Bon Appetite!

Soup #2: Roasted Moroccan Carrot Soup

Serves 4 Chilled Or Hot

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced white onion

• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds

• 1 tablespoon honey

• Ffresh juice of 1/2 lemon

• 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

• 1 teaspoon each sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt

Preparation:

1. Melt butter in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion slices; sauté 4 minutes.

2. Roast carrots on sheet tray covered with light coating of olive oil at 425F for 40-45 minutes. Remove when blackened in spots and lightly wrinkled. Cool and cut into 1/2 inch rounds.

3. Add roasted carrot rounds to saucepan with sautéed onions. Add broth; bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until carrots are very tender, about 15 minutes.

4. Stir cumin seeds in small skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes; cool. Finely grind in spice mill.

5. Remove soup from heat. Whisk in honey, lemon juice, allspice, cumin, salt and pepper. Puree in batches in blender until smooth. If serving cold, place pot in refrigerator for 2 hours.

6. Ladle soup into bowls. Stir the yogurt so that it is smooth and top each serving with a swirl of yogurt. Enjoy.

Soup #3: Green Pea Soup - Chilled Or Hot

Serves 4-6 Chilled Or Hot

Ingredients:

• 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced

• 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

• 5 cups low-sodium chicken broth

• 2 teaspoon dried tarragon

• 1 teaspoon each sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

• 2 (10-oz) bags frozen peas

• 6 teaspoons plain nonfat yogurt, optional

Preparation

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over moderately-low heat. Add the sliced onion, cook, stirring occasionally until softened, about 8 minutes.

2. Add the broth, tarragon, salt and freshly ground black pepper and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook at low temperature for 7 minute.

3. In a blender, puree the soup in 3 batches until very smooth. If serving hot, return the soup to the pot and bring just to a simmer. If serving cold, transfer soup to the mixing bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally. When soup is at room temperature, cover in plastic wrap and put into the refrigerator to cool for 2 hours to chill.

4. If served hot or cold, ladle into cups or bowls and drizzle with yogurt. Enjoy.

Please send comments, questions or observations of interest to Chef Alan at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it For details about past columns, catering or Chef Zox’s blog, please visit www.zoxkitchen.com